Petrol in the catchcan

[GHaST]

Long story short, I killed my ecu some time ago - and it had a base map in it.
I fucked around for ages, got it running and finally got some kind of a resemblance to a tune that would run.

Now during this time I noticed a lot of fuel in the catchcan (50-100ml ?), and the oil smelt a like fuel. I put this more down to my copious turning over and no go. I changed it and went to a mate for a bit more of a idle tune (so it drove).

Changed the oil, tuned a bit more - but still very average. But at least running a lot nicer.


However now I just about 20ml of fuel in the catchcan (over maybe 600k's) and the oil smells like fuel (oil changed before the tunes.

Anyway, my next step is a proper tune (Probably dale again, if he aint to busy - he tuned it before I killed the ecu). However Im fairly worried I've glazed the bore or something ... I only vaguely know what this is, and many internet readings conflict.


The car runs nice enough, I don't know if it did this before (was dumping to the ground before). Is the engine cactus? Should I worry? Can just being a little/or lottle too rich cause this (ie, I still have a huge black area behind the car in the garage from startups)? Obviously fuelly oil means thinny oil, but the car blows no smoke, not even black smoke I've seen. Also uses no oil I've seen.

[GTSBoy]

I don't think bores get glazed from excessive washing with fuel. Simply wearing them bores and the rings is the expected outcome - as well as fucking the mains and any other bearings if they have been loaded with fuelly oil in them.

[Steve]

Yeah too rich will make the oil smell fuelly, especially if it's washing the bores. Try smelling the exhaust at idle, if it smells like fuel and makes your eyes water, it's too rich. Pumping out black water on cold starts is another indicator.

[GHaST]

Originally Posted by Steve

Yeah too rich will make the oil smell fuelly, especially if it's washing the bores. Try smelling the exhaust at idle, if it smells like fuel and makes your eyes water, it's too rich. Pumping out black water on cold starts is another indicator.

Black water on cold starts = YES .. big black mark in the garage

So another oil change and more tuning is the go ?

[Steve]

At idle, take fuel out till it won't idle any more, then give it a little bit more till it idles just nice. Start making adjustments after the engine is at operating temp, then play with cold starts over a few days first thing in the morning, a little at a time it will get better. I did 4 oil changes in the first week until I got idle and cold starts right, then some dyno time to get the afr's correct across the rev range.

[GHaST]

Cool - Im glad its not a gone compression ring or something like that - I might play tuner and go take some fuel out now... Its fairly lumpy idle right now, with a stock cam ... sounds good though.


Ok NEXT question. In neutral, their is a sound from the gearbox. A rattley sound.
I'd normally assume thrust bearing, but the thrust, spiggot, clutch are all almost newish (maybe 1-2k kms MAX) .. depress the clutch and the noise goes away. (I have a spare box). I also dont recall the sound previously (in the ole silver car I smashed).

[morerevsm3]

do you have alloy flywheel? it is normal if you do

[GHaST]

Originally Posted by morerevsm3

do you have alloy flywheel? it is normal if you do

No, but I asked to have it lightened as much as possible, which didnt look like much - this is it after lightening (or maybe just skimming).

before: (exploded clutch, due to no spiggot bearing! 3-4 gearboxes and a clutch, PS: dude who owned it before me)


after:

[morerevsm3]

most lightening takes place on the other side of the flywheel, need pics of that to see if it has been lightened much

[GHaST]

I'm almost sure that the other side wasn't touched... Just that unfinished look I'm certain.

They kinda shrugged me off "Yeah, that's no problems", and I didn't really know what I was looking for, what can be done, or what to exactly ask for exceptto ask - Lighten the fucker!

Oh well. So the rattle wont be from that. I'm happy just to drive it until it dies really. I'll do some khanas and 1/4 mile stuff soon and see how it goes

[Steve]

If the input shaft has some wear on it, and/or the throw out bearing has been fitted dry as in no anti seize or whatever they recommend then it may sound a little rattly, which is why when you put your foot on the clutch it goes away.
Mine sounds like that. You can get the input shaft sleeved, and over size bore bearing but why bother.

[ahk068]

Make sure your flywheel bolts are tight. I pulled a gearbox apart once trying to find a rattle that only disappered when the clutch was depressed only to find a big rev had loosened the bolts.

[260DET]

Originally Posted by Steve

If the input shaft has some wear on it, and/or the throw out bearing has been fitted dry as in no anti seize or whatever they recommend then it may sound a little rattly, which is why when you put your foot on the clutch it goes away.
Mine sounds like that. You can get the input shaft sleeved, and over size bore bearing but why bother.

My clutch rattles a bit at idle, maybe the light aftermarket flywheel it now has? Gearbox is new, no external lube on the throwout bearing as per Jim Berry advice.

[morerevsm3]

my M3 gearbox rattles since the ~30Lb flywheel was replaced with an 8.5Lb flywheel,

[Steve]

Yeah no lube on the bearing, but a small smear on the input shaft where the bearing slides.